Chalkboard Paint: Kitchen Cabinet

While we were doing the bedroom wall, we also decided to try the chalkboard paint in the kitchen.  I've seen some nice chalkboard kitchen cabinets with grocery lists, drawings, or menus on them.



I think I know who is going to make use of it...



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Chalkboard Paint: Kids' Bedroom Wall

My older son has been really enjoying writing on his huge chalkboard at school and was delighted to hear that they make paint that can turn a wall into a chalkboard.  Figuring we could paint over it if it was a disaster, we taped up a space and went for it.

He actually did most of it~ I guided the corners and the spacing.  The lines are double because we also did a glow in the dark border but we never leave the light on in there long enough to charge it up.

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Chalkboard Paint: Kitchen Cabinets and Sight Words, Lowercase b vs. d and p

We did some chalkboard paint in one of the kid's bedrooms, then on a lower kitchen cabinet.  Now we added two more cabinets in the kitchen.  Our concern was the chalk dust on the counters, and I am pleased to say it hasn't been an issue.

AND-- we can practice some pesky sight words and lowercase letters that look similar.  

My older son also asked why we spent so much time in preschool learning uppercase letters, and now, in K, everything is in lowercase!  That's a good point.

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Tutorial: DIY Upcycling old Shelves into Boxes to Cover Irrigation Valves (DIY Valve Cover Box)

We have been talking about making/ buying boxes for a long time for the front and back of the house where the irrigation valves are.  We wanted boxes to protect the valves from the sun in the summer breaking down the plastic, and from the cold in the winter, making them burst.

Granted, this winter we are coming out of was colder than most, but it did cause us to wrap the pipes after repairing the front valves, then replacing one of them for suspected minor freeze damage which was revealed when we recently turned them back on.  I also thought it would look nicer/ tidier to hide the valves.

Rear Irrigation Valves - BEFORE

Front Irrigation valves- BEFORE

Rear Irrigation Valves - AFTER

Front Irrigation Valves - AFTER

So-- the boys and I got to work.  We measured the areas, and found some old boards in the scrap pile.  These particular boards came from the garage cabinets we recently pulled out (and gave away on craigslist- did I mention how much I love craigslist?).  We kept them, thinking they would come in handy.

We started with the rear irrigation area.  Here are the measurements and my crude drawing and building plan.  I did it in pencil on one of the boards.  This cut list is missing my posts- I wanted 4 which were 24" tall (I used new 2x4s leftover from the greenhouse project).

The next step was to measure and label the boards.

 Then I cut them with the circular saw and gave them to my elder assistant to assemble.  We used 2" screws.

We did the spacing between the boards using a board as a spacer, then removing it.

We measured it against the valves before adding the back two posts (carried it there and back).

The littler helper had to make his own box out of scraps.

 Then we moved on to the front irrigation area.  We measured, I drew the box and made a cut list, then got to measuring and cutting from our scrap pile.

I did the cuts, and we assembled the box.  

You will notice both boxes have the top piece that isn't as wide as the entire box.  The scraps fell this way, and I opted not to make a thin strip on either box.  They are easier to carry this way, and having it not all the way flush with the wall doesn't interfere with the sun-blocking capabilities.  If you run into the same issue, it's your call (obviously).  I thought it was insignificant.  

Another thing you will notice is that the 2x4 posts take up room on the inside of the box.  This only mattered to us on the front box, where there is a pressure reducing valve poking out slightly to the right below the spigot.  I opted not to put in the fourth post for this reason-- I wanted more clearance for that valve.  To check for this, I measured each box against the actual space with only the front posts attached.  After it fit and I had a feel for the space, I attached the back posts (or not).  The advantage of the back posts is that they help keep the side panels flush-- especially when using upcycled wood, as we were.

 Then we primed the boxes.

Then we painted them.

Then we painted them again.

Then we turned them over and primed them and painted them again.  I wanted to make sure the wood that would be on the mulch would be protected from rotting, especially since the area is fairly moist.

Voila! 

 I MAY put a little plant or something on the shelf.  Stay tuned.  The color looks slightly off-- our exterior paint color is slightly off because our house is made of shingles and they were stained, not painted.  I need a few days to get used to them.  The front box also looks slightly askew- I may need to put a brick or something under that right side.

Rear Irrigation Valves - AFTER

Front Irrigation Valves - AFTER

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DIY Screen Repair

So-- we have kids and a cat and somehow the screen door got a hole in it and the kids and cat have been able to pass freely through.  Duct tape be damned, that screen door is a good passageway.  I cannot tell you how long "fix the screen door" has been on our "Honey Do" list.

But FLIES no more!

............POOF.................

Ok, maybe not like magic.  I bought a kit after measuring the screen door.  I read a blog post on The Art of Doing Stuff about how to replace a screen.  I was inspired.  I found a kit for $14 and it arrived.

I set it aside to do it, and found my husband like this (see above photo) this morning.  

And he did it!  There is no longer a hole in the screen.  He even banned the kids from leaning on it and told them to close it every time after they opened it.

I asked him about it, and he said, "It's easy when you have the right tools."

p.s. I am saving the old screen for the greenhouse-- so I can leave the door open for ventilation but not have the chickens come in-- so stay tuned.

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Building a Greenhouse Part 7: Shelves

We had a NORBO Ikea folding table laying around, and I liked the idea of having a workspace when I needed it, and open space when I didn't.  I installed it, but, as you recall, the studs aren't at 16".  So I attached a 2x4 the width of the table to the existing studs, and another one down a stud, and attached the table to that.  I put leftover 1x3s in the space between the table and the wall to remove the gap.

We primed and painted some leftover plywood (from the floor) and made two shelves out of it along the siding side of the greenhouse.  We didn't want to block any sun with our shelves, but wanted space to put wider plants.

Way on top are some shelves made of leftover closet material.  I attached it using scraps of 1x3.  I wanted shelving that wouldn't block the light.

Between the studs on the light sides of the greenhouse are pieces of plywood and scrap 1x4s and 1x3s cut to the width of the studs as shelves.  They are at different heights so we could screw them in from the opposite side of the stud and for visual variety.  We also wanted as much space as possible in which to walk and wanted to minimize light blockage.

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Here is a finished exterior photo, with the coop so you can see how far away the coop and greenhouse are.

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Building a Greenhouse Part 1: Framing

Building a Greenhouse Part 2: Siding/ Glazing and Doors Windows

Building a Greenhouse Part 3: Exterior Trim/ Flashing, Insulation and Backerboard (for Tile)

Building a Greenhouse Part 4: Tiling

Building a Greenhouse Part 5: Plumbing

Building a Greenhouse Part 6: Interior Trim/ Caulk

Building a Greenhouse Part 7: Shelves

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Building a Greenhouse Part 6: Interior Trim/ Caulk

We have the lingering issue of air leakage at the window and door.  The interior trim is an attempt at tightening up the seal at each.

It also helps keep the insulation attached, and adds a bit of style (I also added a thermometer).

My younger helper and I also caulked a bit.  There were gaps at the corner posts, and we also caulked along the edge where the tile meets the floor studs, and at the door and window.

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Building a Greenhouse Part 1: Framing

Building a Greenhouse Part 2: Siding/ Glazing and Doors Windows

Building a Greenhouse Part 3: Exterior Trim/ Flashing, Insulation and Backerboard (for Tile)

Building a Greenhouse Part 4: Tiling

Building a Greenhouse Part 5: Plumbing

Building a Greenhouse Part 6: Interior Trim/ Caulk

Building a Greenhouse Part 7: Shelves

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Building a Greenhouse Part 5: Plumbing

As you may recall, we added plumbing to the chicken coop last fall.

The greenhouse is fairly close to the coop, so we decided to plumb them together and add a spigot to the greenhouse.  We didn't do a drain, thinking we will hold a bucket under it and water the plants with any waste water.  Stay posted to see how that turns out.

The spigot is in the door corner.  You can see the PVC going down, and jogging out and down through the studs and flooring.

I again neglected photography when we dug across the chicken yard.  This time, though, we were fending off chickens, who love nothing more than freshly dug holes and their worms.  We went down (the pipe wrapped it for winter), then across, then between the coop and compost bin and tied into the coop water.  The shut-off valve is a bit lower then ideal, but it turns off all the water to the area, which is nice.  You can never have too many shut-off valves.  

I have since painted the new pipe brown and covered up the exterior portion (shown here).  The part that was never photographed was covered up shortly after it was glued closed.  Those chickens sure excel at digging.

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Building a Greenhouse Part 1: Framing

Building a Greenhouse Part 2: Siding/ Glazing and Doors Windows

Building a Greenhouse Part 3: Exterior Trim/ Flashing, Insulation and Backerboard (for Tile)

Building a Greenhouse Part 4: Tiling

Building a Greenhouse Part 5: Plumbing

Building a Greenhouse Part 6: Interior Trim/ Caulk

Building a Greenhouse Part 7: Shelves

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Building a Greenhouse Part 4: Tiling

After every tile project around the house, we don't return the extra tile.  Why? Maybe we will need it someday.

Well, that day has come.

This design is courtesy of my older helper.  It is made from all of our old tile plus five extra feet of tile we bought.  He did a really nice job, I think, and we didn't need to use the tile saw.  A few grout lines are a bit thin, but I really like the look of it.

Here he is, with the one foot piece of tile he begged for and loves (yes, he is a bit flushed.  It is a bit hot in there since we added the insulation.  Yes, we are drinking water).

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Building a Greenhouse Part 1: Framing

Building a Greenhouse Part 2: Siding/ Glazing and Doors Windows

Building a Greenhouse Part 3: Exterior Trim/ Flashing, Insulation and Backerboard (for Tile)

Building a Greenhouse Part 4: Tiling

Building a Greenhouse Part 5: Plumbing

Building a Greenhouse Part 6: Interior Trim/ Caulk

Building a Greenhouse Part 7: Shelves

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Building a Greenhouse Part 3: Exterior Trim/ Flashing, Insulation and Backerboard (for Tile)

 Exterior Trim/ Flashing

I managed to find 1x3 pieces they call "furring strips" which aren't that expensive and paint and prime up nicely.  We use "swiss coffee" for all of our neutral white-ish needs because it is pre-mixed at Home Depot (i.e. saves 10 min per trip).   I cut these and attached them all around the exterior to gussy up the place a bit and help close the air leaks at the door and window and am happy with it.  I measured the corners and attached them to each other before attaching them to the greenhouse, which helps the corners look more closed.

For the tops and sides, I got metal flashing painted white.  I installed it with roofing screws just under the roof glazing (and over the trim) on both sides and over the trim and flashing in the back (yes, I neglected my photographic duties here). 

Fingers crossed for me for the winter that this keeps the rain out!! 

Insulation 

We decided to use thick stryofoam insulation on the interior where the siding is.  This turned out to be really messy, with little balls of styrofoam all over.  I covered the top edges with silver flashing tape we had left over from a window project so the kids wouldn't pick at it.  I left the silver reflective side facing in, and uncovered.  

 Backerboard (for Tile)

Cement board (aka backer board) for tile comes in 3x5 pieces, so we got two of the thinner variety.  It cuts nicely with my circular saw as well, although it is really dusty.  

[Here is a side note- check out my window opening.  You can see the additional stud sideways below it, and the stud keeping it up.  That is my kids' step, so they can climb out the window without breaking anything- and end up on the ladder.]

We put in the backerboard and used yellow drywall tape at the seams.

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Building a Greenhouse Part 1: Framing

Building a Greenhouse Part 2: Siding/ Glazing and Doors Windows

Building a Greenhouse Part 3: Exterior Trim/ Flashing, Insulation and Backerboard (for Tile)

Building a Greenhouse Part 4: Tiling

Building a Greenhouse Part 5: Plumbing

Building a Greenhouse Part 6: Interior Trim/ Caulk

Building a Greenhouse Part 7: Shelves

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Building a Greenhouse Part 2: Siding/ Glazing and Doors Windows

It is interesting to be writing these posts with so few photos.  We were so busy- with pockets overfull and work aprons bursting full- that the camera remained out of sight.  

Anyway- We re-did the framing.  And put on the thick plywood floor (with zero photos of that-- my kids were champs with the hammers-- and we snapped a chalk line to mark the joists).  We chose thick plywood because my floor joists are a bit further than 16".

Then we found polycarbonate roofing material at Home Depot (aka GLAZING).  They also have these little foam pieces that fit into the gaps to seal the air out, as well as roofing screws with washers with gaskets on them.  I don't like the look of the foam pieces, but used them instead of their plastic counterpart because they looked cheaper and easier (I later covered them with trim).

I wanted to use the glazing only where the sun would hit, and in as few of cuts as possible.  I was under the impression it would shatter with my handy circular saw.  Online, I saw that people used a plywood blade (many teeth), or tin snips, or made their line in masking tape then cut through the tape.  I am here to tell you it is a load of baloney.  The regular circular saw blade works just fine.  It is a bit loud, and my eye protection was worth every penny, but I had no shatters and my lines were cut fine.

So... we put plywood siding below the glazing on the front and back, and on the far side (and the close side next to the door).  I should have painted the siding before installing it, but  we live and learn.  We chose our house color (dark brown) after priming it.  I pieced together the glazing on both sides, and will apply silicon seal where the pieces meet.

On the door and window, the glazing is on the interior.   My husband thinks this is a terrible idea, and is inviting rain problems for the winter.  I did it because I don't like the look of the foam from the outside.  He is probably right, so stay tuned come winter.

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Building a Greenhouse Part 1: Framing

Building a Greenhouse Part 2: Siding/ Glazing and Doors Windows

Building a Greenhouse Part 3: Exterior Trim/ Flashing, Insulation and Backerboard (for Tile)

Building a Greenhouse Part 4: Tiling

Building a Greenhouse Part 5: Plumbing

Building a Greenhouse Part 6: Interior Trim/ Caulk

Building a Greenhouse Part 7: Shelves

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